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Leatherworking I: Cutting, Snapping, and Finishing
Leatherworking I: Cutting, Snapping, and Finishing

Leather accessories are experiencing a renaissance, with belts taking center stage as both functional and stylish pieces. Leatherwork has a long history, but modern techniques and designs allow artisans to create unique, personal pieces. Whether you’re interested in leather crafting as a hobby or looking to add a modern touch to your wardrobe, there’s never been a better time to learn the techniques for crafting leather belt designs.

One such artisan is Jennifer DeLuca, a dedicated member of NextFab who joined in September 2023. Jennifer initially joined to explore sewing using industrial machines, but soon found herself drawn to leatherworking. While holding a full-time job, she spends her free time at NextFab working on belts, bags, and keychain accessories for friends and family. We sat down with Jennifer to dive into the essentials of belt crafting and explore what you need to create modern leather belt designs.

What Do I Need to Start Making Leather Belts?

Leatherworking class in Philadelphia

Getting started with leather belt design doesn’t require a huge investment in materials or tools, but having the right supplies is crucial to achieving a high-quality finished product. 

Leather

Leather is the foundation of any belt, and choosing the right type is essential for the look and feel you want. There are two primary types of leather to consider:

  • Vegetable-tanned leather: This is the most raw and natural form of leather, making it ideal for customization. Its pale, unfinished surface is perfect for stamping, dyeing, and painting. With vegetable-tanned leather, you have the freedom to choose the colors and designs you want, but you’ll also need to invest in leather dye if you want to color the belt.
  • Chrome-tanned leather: This leather is pre-textured and comes in a variety of colors, so you can skip the dyeing process. It has a sleeker, more finished look straight out of the gate. Chrome-tanned leather is great for creating modern, polished belts, but it’s less customizable compared to vegetable-tanned leather.

Both types of leather are beautiful in their own ways, and you can choose depending on the level of customization you want for your leather belt design.

Belt Buckle and Hardware

Hardware for leather belt

No belt is complete without the right hardware. Belt buckles come in various styles, from simple, sleek designs to more ornate options. Choosing the right buckle can dramatically affect the overall appearance of your belt.

You’ll also need rivets or other fasteners to secure the belt around the buckle. When designing your leather belt, consider the metal finishes—brass, silver, or matte black buckles can offer different aesthetics to match your personal style.

Tools for Leatherwork

Leatherworking tools

For the basic process of creating a leather belt, you’ll need a few essential tools:

  • Awl: This sharp tool is used for punching holes in the leather, especially for adjusting the belt’s size. Precision is key here, so having a sturdy awl is important.
  • Knife or Exacto blade: Leather is thick and sturdy, so a sharp blade is necessary to cut through it cleanly. The sharper your knife, the more accurate your cuts will be.
  • Ruler or Strap Cutter: Ensuring straight edges is vital for any belt design. A strap cutter allows you to feed the leather through and make even, precise cuts.

Optional Add-ons

Leather paint

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can start incorporating more advanced techniques and tools:

  • Thread and needles: For stitching decorative elements or reinforcing the structure of the belt.
  • Leather stamps: Used to emboss designs or initials into the leather, giving it a personalized touch.
  • Leather paint: Chrome-tanned leather can’t be dyed, but you can still apply paint to add a pop of color or contrast along the edges.

Where to Shop for Leather and Tools

Finding the right leather for your project is all about personal preference. Jennifer suggests shopping at Tandy Leather in Philadelphia Mills (Franklin Mills), where you can feel the leather in person and check for imperfections like scars or markings. For chrome-tanned leather, she recommends Made on Jupiter Leather Lab, an online-only store that specializes in high-quality chrome-tanned leather in a wide range of colors and textures.

Leather Crafting Techniques: What You Need to Know

Finishing edge of leather belt

Crafting a leather belt is all about technique, and like any craft, mastering these techniques takes practice. Jennifer has picked up many skills during her time at NextFab, and here are the key techniques you’ll want to learn:

1. Cutting Leather

Cutting leather might seem straightforward, but precision is key for a clean, professional look. When cutting leather for a belt, Jennifer recommends using a sharp knife or exacto blade. A steady hand and a ruler will ensure your cuts are straight, but for perfectly sharp edges, a strap cutter or laser cutter (like the one at NextFab) can make all the difference.

2. Sewing

Hand-stitching is an optional but highly recommended step for adding detail to your leather belt design. A simple saddle stitch can add durability to the belt’s edges and also introduce a decorative element. While thinner leathers can be sewn using an industrial machine, belts typically require hand-stitching for their thicker construction. A stitching pony can help hold the leather in place as you sew, making the process easier and more precise.

3. Dyeing

If you’re working with vegetable-tanned leather, you’ll need to dye the leather yourself. Jennifer suggests using Fiebing’s leather dyes for a rich, even finish. Apply the dye using wool swabs, making sure to wet the leather first for an even application. This step requires patience—rushing through the dyeing process can result in uneven color or streaks.

4. Edge Finishing

The edges of a leather belt are often overlooked, but finishing them properly will elevate your design. For vegetable-tanned leather, you can use Tokonole and a burnisher to smooth and seal the edges. If you prefer chrome-tanned leather, edge painting is your best option. This involves applying multiple layers of paint, and sanding between coats to achieve a sleek, smooth finish. It can be a time-consuming process, but the end result is well worth the effort.

How Long Does It Take to Learn Leather Crafting?

Jennifer’s journey into leather crafting started in September 2023, and she’s still learning new techniques with every project. The basics, like cutting and dyeing leather, can be learned in a few hours, but mastering the more intricate techniques will take time. After a few months of practice, you’ll have the skills to create belts, bags, and other leather accessories with confidence.

Get Started on Your Leather Belt Design Journey

Handmade leather belt

Designing your own leather belt offers endless possibilities for personalization. Whether you prefer the customizable nature of vegetable-tanned leather or the sleek finish of chrome-tanned leather, you’ll be able to create a piece that reflects your personal style.

Jennifer is currently working on a green leather satchel, but her belts remain some of her favorite projects—especially as handmade gifts for friends and family. Now it’s your turn! With the right tools, materials, and a little creativity, you can start crafting your own modern leather belt designs today.

Learn how to work with leather at NextFab with the Designing Leather Accessories: Tooling, Dyeing, Hand-Stitching, and Pattern Making course!

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