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Soldering in jewelry making is an art that requires precision and a keen understanding of the materials at hand. For intermediate jewelry makers, mastering soldering techniques is essential to create intricate and durable pieces. To get the inside scoop on what makes a great solder, we spoke with jewelry designer, Artisan Accelerator graduate, and NextFab member Niki Leist who shared her expertise.
One fundamental principle to remember is that the thinner or tinier the piece, the more susceptible it is to melting. For instance, when soldering a jump ring for connecting a clasp to a chain, it’s crucial to use the least amount of fire. The reason? The thin chain is likely to melt if exposed to too much heat. On the opposite end, not using enough heat may prevent the solder from flowing correctly, so avoid going too low. With larger pieces, heat with a larger flame or bigger torch tip to get the right temperature.
Moreover, it’s important to note that solder comes in different melting points – easy, medium, and hard are the most frequently used. This is particularly crucial when working on items with multiple soldering points. The strategy here is to start with the hard solder, which has the highest melting point, and progress to the medium and easy ones, depending on the distance between the soldering points.
In the world of jewelry soldering, the choice of solder can significantly impact the outcome. While paste solder is available, wire and sheet forms are more traditionally used among jewelers. Wire solder, for instance, can be run through a rolling mill to flatten and thin it out, ensuring that you don’t overuse it.
One technique to consider is sweat soldering or pre-flowing solder. This method is particularly useful in scenarios like making hoop earrings. By pre-flowing the solder on the hoop and keeping the heat focused on the larger component, you avoid uneven heating. Niki’s recommendations:
Solder flows toward heat. For a project like attaching a post to earrings, set up the hoop in a third hand and preflow the hoop where the post will be attached instead of heating the post at the same rate as the hoop. This will avoid melting the smaller post-piece. In the case of making a ring, it’s important to heat the entire piece to get the solder flowing on both sides of the joint rather than to just one.
The right tools can make a significant difference in soldering. Essentials include a third hand, tweezers, and stainless steel pins. Titanium tools and flux are also vital. Flux, a type of paste, bubbles when heated and helps keep the joint clean. However, it’s important to be cautious as the bubbling can cause components to move, potentially leading to lopsided results.
As a mom, Nikki wanted to remove potential safety hazards from her home, and she has been at NextFab ever since. Here we have all the essential tools, as well as fumigation hoods and an emphasis on safety training.
Preparation is key to successful soldering. Ensuring that the joins are flush and clean is crucial, as solder won’t flow properly if there’s any dirt, fire scale, or oxidation. When setting up your soldering station, it’s essential to consider the specific piece you’re working on. For example, when soldering a ring shank to the setting, it’s important to ensure that the shank isn’t lopsided and meets the setting precisely.
A pro tip for beginners is to aim for a very tight join with no space between the sides of the metal. Solder doesn’t fill gaps well; it prefers to flow directly across a tight join. Also, using the least amount of solder necessary not only ensures a cleaner connection but also minimizes the need for extensive cleanup. Excess solder can lead to a loss of detail and require additional sanding and filing.
When soldering, the general process involves first applying flux to the piece, which helps in cleaning and preparing the metal surface. Then, heat the entire piece evenly until the flux stops bubbling and appears glassy and clear. This is your cue to place the solder, which can be done with tweezers or a solder pick. Keep heating the piece and watch as the solder flows smoothly over the joint. Then turn off the heat! Once it flows it’s better to stop, put the piece in the pickle (which cleans any leftover flux off of the piece), and check that the solder flowed properly afterward. If it didn’t, go back and do the whole setup and solder again. Without stopping and checking, you run the risk of melting the piece.
Remember, soldering is as much about technique as it is about understanding the behavior of the metal and solder. Each piece of jewelry presents its own unique challenges, and being adaptable and attentive to the needs of each piece is the hallmark of an adept jewelry maker.
By mastering these techniques and applying these tips, you’ll be well on your way to creating beautiful, intricate, and lasting jewelry pieces. Remember, each soldered joint is not just a connection of metal pieces; it’s a testament to your craftsmanship and attention to detail.
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