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In the intricate world of denim manufacturing, each thread is part of a long history of craftsmanship and tradition. We sat down with Paige Sato, a seasoned textile artist who brings a meticulous touch to the age-old craft of denim. From her roots in New Jersey to her thriving creative journey in Philadelphia at NextFab, Paige shares the secrets behind bespoke denim, offering a glimpse into a world where every stitch counts.
Denim, a robust woven fabric akin to twill or canvas, is defined by its unique interplay of warp and weft threads. Paige explains, “In denim, the warp threads run vertically and are more numerous than the horizontal weft threads, which makes it exceptionally strong, even in lighter weights.”
The characteristic blue hue of denim arises from indigo-dyed weft threads, contrasting with the undyed, white cotton warp threads. This duality gives denim its signature look, revealing white undertones unless the fabric undergoes post-manufacturing over-dyeing.
Twill is at the heart of denim’s texture and strength. Paige elaborates on the twill variations: “A 2×1 twill, with two warp threads for every weft thread, results in a lighter fabric compared to a 3×1 twill.”
The direction of the twill, whether right or left hand, also impacts the fabric’s characteristics. Right-hand twill, more common and stiffer, creates the familiar whiskering effect seen on well-worn jeans. To counteract issues like twisting and torquing during mass production, the 80s saw the advent of broken twill—a 1×1 weave without a natural direction, ensuring stability and consistency in large-scale manufacturing, even when facing issues like off-grain cutting.
Traditional looms, once 30 inches wide, have now expanded to 60 inches, catering to larger fabric pieces. Despite this evolution, the revered 30-inch looms still produce selvedge denim—a premium fabric marked by its distinct edge, often adorned with colored threads. “Selvedge denim, often found in Japanese brands, is the king of all denim,” says Paige. This is not to be confused with bespoke raw denim, where raw denim means the material is not pre-treated and selvedge denim refers to how the material is constructed.
Bespoke denim is a step above custom tailoring. It’s about creating garments precisely tailored to an individual’s measurements and preferences, with each piece cut for the specific person. Paige describes the process: “A bespoke tailor takes precise measurements from the customer and creates a unique pattern. The pattern is saved and becomes a template for future creations for the individual, guaranteeing consistency and personalization.”
In the US, custom tailoring is more common than bespoke. Starting from a standard block pattern, adjustments are made to the piece to fit the customer’s measurements and style preferences, resulting in a personalized garment.
Paige says, “The hardest part about a sewing project is figuring out which size is needed and cutting everything out. Once everything is cut, a pair of jeans can be sewn in 6-8 hours.” Creating bespoke denim jeans might seem daunting, but Paige breaks it down into manageable steps.
The first step is measuring and cutting. You’ll need:
Once the denim is cut, it’s time to assemble. The process is:
“Always iron and press after each step to ensure a professional finish,” Paige advises.
Bespoke denim offers a uniqueness that off-the-rack garments can’t match. Tailored to individual body shapes, bespoke jeans account for specific proportions, resulting in a perfect fit. When creating for an individual body type, the possibilities are limitless. Consider applying the technique to a bespoke denim jacket or a bespoke denim shirt. “The end product is a piece that’s uniquely yours, fitting exactly as you want,” says Paige.
After moving to Philadelphia in 2022, Paige found her creative haven at NextFab. Her studio, M.A.B.E.L (Makers Always Bring Extra Love), focuses on utilitarian goods crafted from vintage quilts. At NextFab, Paige has access to a plethora of tools, from industrial sewing machines to laser cutters, enabling her to expand her creative horizons.
Paige said, “Having the option to learn new tools is invaluable. I can expand in ways I hadn’t thought of before.
Currently, Paige is working on custom pants for her daughter and a statement bag for an upcoming family wedding. Her passion for learning and experimenting drives her to continuously evolve her craft.
In collaboration with NextFab, Paige plans to offer a course on making personalized jeans, teaching attendees to adjust preexisting patterns for a perfect fit. “Once you understand the process, you can tailor any store-bought denim to your exact needs,” she shares.
Creating bespoke denim is an attainable skill, and with the right tools and guidance, anyone can master it. With NextFab’s textile tools and classes, Paige and other makers continue to push the boundaries of creativity, turning everyday garments into personalized works of art.
In Partnership with FORMATION. Media
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